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Dining

Chicago's cosmopolitan makeup is reflected in its plethora of ethnic restaurants. Italian food, ranging from hearty deep-dish pizza (developed in 1953 at Pizzeria Uno) to delicately crafted creations presented at stylish trattorias, continues to dominate a very dynamic scene. In recent years there's been a surge of popularity for New American cuisine. Thai restaurants still thrive, as do ones with a broad Mediterranean slant, many of which serve tapas; and there are still plenty of opportunities to sample more longstanding Chicago cuisines - Eastern European, German, Mexican, Chinese, Indian, even Burmese and Ethiopian. Of course, a number of establishments serve good old-fashioned barbecue ribs, a legacy of Chicago's days as the nation's meatpacker. And no visit is complete without sampling a messy Italian beef sandwich, or a Chicago-style hot dog, laden with tomatoes, onions, hot peppers and a pickle.

The largest concentration of restaurants is found north and west of the
Loop. To the west, Greektown, around Halsted Street at Jackson Boulevard, and Little Italy, on and around Taylor Street, are worth a look. The Near North and River North areas harbor a good number of upscale places. Chinatown, though not pretty, is a predictably good neighborhood for Cantonese and Szechuan food. Many bars and cafés listed in the "Nightlife and Entertainment" section also serve snacks and light meals, and dozens of places in the Loop offer great breakfast and lunch specials.

The Berghoff 17 W Adams St tel 312/427-3170. The beautifully preserved Chicago landmark, dating from 1893, offers plentiful Germanic specialties plus fish dishes and corned beef and cabbage. Try the draft or root beer. A bargain.

Billy Goat Tavern 430 N Michigan Ave, lower level tel 312/222-1525. This legendary journalists' haunt opens early and closes late, serving the 'cheezborgers' made famous by John Belushi's comedy skit. Very reasonable.

Everest One Financial Place, 440 S LaSalle St tel 312/663-8920. Take in the stunning vista from the 40th floor and tuck into chef Jean Joho's wild mushroom consommé and roasted Maine lobster. Very expensive; closed Sun, Mon.

Italian Village 71 W Monroe St tel 312/332-7005. Three Italian establishments flourish under one roof. The Village has traditional Italian-American food and a world-class wine cellar. The basement La Cantina serves chicken Vesuvio, a Chicago creation, among its reasonably priced dishes. The expensive Vivere (tel 312/332-4040) has an adventurous menu, a mesmerizing wine list and a large pre-theater crowd (so arrive after 8pm).

Lou Mitchell's 565 W Jackson Ave tel 312/939-3111. Near Union Station, Lou's has been around since 1923, serving terrific omelets, waffles and hash browns all day long. Try the pecan-laden cookies.

Marché 833 W Randolph St tel 312/226-8399. Creative French cuisine - try the porcini-crusted Chilean sea bass - is served in an eclectic atmosphere in the Market District. Entrees $16-28.

Prairie 500 S Dearborn St, in the Hyatt tel 312/663-1143. Modeled on a Frank Lloyd Wright interior, this place uses only fresh Midwestern ingredients in dishes such as sirloin of buffalo and brandied loaf of duck.

Printers Row 550 S Dearborn St tel 312/461-0780. Seafood and game are highlights among the captivating New American concoctions devised by owner/chef Michael Foley. Quite pricey.

Russian Tea Time 77 E Adams St tel 312/360-0000. This Midwestern nod to New York's Russian Tea Room offers a sampling of authentic fare from the former Soviet empire. Pricey, but lunch can be a bargain.

Sorriso 321 N Clark St tel 312/644-0283. The alfresco dining comes with a spectacular view of the Loop riverfront and skyline. The menu features Italian and American dishes including scungilli (conch) salad. The piano bar occasionally serves free pizza during the cocktail hour.

Trattoria No 10 10 N Dearborn St tel 312/984-1718. This charming surprise, in a series of underground rooms, serves up delicious warm bread (stuffed with sun-dried tomatoes), grilled sea scallops and risotto.